On the Wine Side - Saluti to Ruffino Fri, Aug 11, 23 August may have been without Dave's and my Wednesday night Wineology classes, but it wasn't without an opportunity to learn about and try some amazing wines. On August 8, Exit 9 welcomed Catarina Corvino from Ruffino, who poured some classic stand-outs from this iconic producer. We got some history, too.Ruffino has been making wine in the heart of Tuscany since 1877. The winery's reputation for quality was sealed early on when the Duke of Aosta tasted it in 1890 and appointed Ruffino as supplier to the royal household. The Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico and Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione are so named because "Ducale" means "reserved for the Duke. With a proud heritage and a solid hold on the market, today the winery is not just resting on its laurels. Ruffino recently made a multi-million dollar commitment to eco-conscious sustainability that will affect all aspects of the business, including the transition to 100% organic production by 2025. Ruffino has already obtained certifications as Biodiversity Friend and SNQPI (National Quality System of Integrated Production). They established a Winemaking Council for the brand to ensure "uncompromising" quality.Impressive behind the scenes, for sure. But the proof is in the glass. The tasting started with Ruffino's 2019 Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico DOCG. The first vintage of this signature offering was released in 1927. It's been the best-selling Chianti in the US for over 100 years. Now I know why. A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it's aged two years in bottle barrels. With a nose of berry and plum and a hint of spice, on the palate the the wine is full-bodied and beautifully balanced.The next pour was the 2019 Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Ruffino ages this one for 4 years. The blend is 83% Sangiovese, 12% Merlot, and 5% Colorino, a grape that yields dark color, high tannins, and deep berry notes. The wine jumps out of the glass with aromas of blackcurrant, cherry, and some black pepper, and on the palate it's rich with berry and even some smoky notes and a long, elegant finish. The 2017 Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG was next. This wine is made with 100% Sangiovese from the estate vineyard in Montalcino with a high altitude and loamy soils. The 2017 vintage was considered exceptional, and the wine reflects it. Aged for nearly five years in oak, this big wine is elegant and elusive, with different flavor notes emerging with every sip, and the tannins yielding a long-lasting finish.Last - but definitely not least - was the 2019 Modus Toscana. Modus is the Latin word for Method, and with this wine Ruffino has created its take on a "Supertuscan," or wine that shows off what the region's grapes are capable of. It's 44% Sangiovese, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 19% Merlot. It goes back through malolactic fermentation in stainless steel before going into French oak barriques for a year. The wine is opulent and berry-forward from the nose through the palate, with delightful layers of fennel and spice and everything nice. No wonder this wine consistently scores over 90 points with reviewers. I had the great pleasure of attending a tasting dinner featuring a couple of these and some other Ruffino wines at Pasta Pane in Clifton Park the evening after the tasting here at Exit 9. The Modus was paired with a mushroom tagliatelle with a tomato ragu that had everyone at the table spellbound. The Riserva Ducale Oro was paired with a dish of duck confit, Tuscan braised beans, black truffle and crispy kale. The food was incredible, and the wines showed beautifully.If you want to elevate your game at your next Italian dinner night, whether at home or at a friend's, whether you're serving classic bolognese or duck confit a la Pasta Pane, I highly recommend serving one or all of these beautiful wines. I think the Duke of Aosta would make the same selection for the royal household if he tasted the wines today. Saluti to Ruffino! By Dominique De Vito
